The menus, written at dawn
One tasting, one daytime carte, and one cellar. Every dish is listed with its description, its price, and its allergens, so you can read the whole evening before you arrive. 52 dishes and pours across the three menus, rewritten with the season.
Le Menu Degustation
One written path through the morning market, set down each dawn before the city wakes. The order is fixed for the evening, served to the whole table, and changes only with what arrives at the door. A vegetarian path is offered with notice.
Seasonal tasting, nine movements, Nine movements, 32,000 yen
Pour commencer
Three cold openings, light enough to leave the appetite intact, sharp enough to wake it.
A single Hiroshima oyster under cucumber pressed in sake lees, with a cold green oil of shiso pressed that morning.
- shellfish
- alcohol
Sashimi grade red prawn chopped to order, dressed with smoked roe and a cold dashi vinaigrette.
- shellfish
- fish
A warm choux puff baked to order, filled with comte held for two winters and a breath of black pepper.
- gluten
- dairy
- egg
La mer
Two readings of the cold northern water, treated with as little heat as the produce will allow.
Hokkaido langoustine warmed in brown butter, dressed with green almond and a fine thread of yuzu zest.
- shellfish
- dairy
- nuts
Line caught turbot rested over its own roasting juices, finished with a sauce of vin jaune and cultured cream.
- fish
- dairy
- alcohol
- sulphites
A clear broth of charred leek and kombu, clarified twice and poured at the table into an empty bowl.
Le potager
The garden movement, where the cooking quiets and the producer is left to speak first.
Steamed white asparagus under a vin jaune sabayon, finished with a rasp of cured egg yolk.
- egg
- dairy
- alcohol
- sulphites
Celeriac charred whole in the embers, peeled at the pass, set under a cool veil of creme fraiche and burnt onion.
- dairy
Hand shelled spring peas under a cold mint oil, finished with a rasp of slow cured egg yolk.
- egg
La terre
The land movement, cooked over coals, the deepest plate of the evening.
Aged pigeon roasted over embers, beetroot pressed in its own juices, a jus lifted with blackcurrant leaf.
Breast of aged duck rested by the coals, glazed turnip, and a sharp clear jus of verjus.
- sulphites
Le fromage
A short cheese course from a cool trolley, kept simple, never crowded.
Comte held twenty four months, with toasted walnut and a thin crisp of bitter honey.
- dairy
- nuts
- gluten
A pressed sheep cheese from the Pyrenees with slow cooked quince and cracked black pepper.
- dairy
A cool, restrained blue with poached pear and a thin shard of toasted rye.
- dairy
- gluten
La fin
The close, where sugar is held back and acid, bitterness, and cold are allowed to lead.
Toasted buckwheat sponge, brown butter ice cream, and a single spoon of bitter chestnut honey.
- gluten
- dairy
- egg
Cold yuzu cream set under a thin sable, the last note left almost plain on the plate.
- gluten
- dairy
- egg
A small dark chocolate worked with single origin coffee and finished with a flake of sea salt.
- dairy
- soy
La Carte
A shorter way to read the kitchen, drawn from the same dawn market and served at the twelve counter seats through lunch. Choose freely by the table, or hand the evening to the pass and let it lead.
A la carte, lunch and the counter, By the plate
Les entrees
Cold and warm openings, chosen one or two to the table.
Sashimi grade red prawn, smoked roe, and a cold dashi vinaigrette poured to order.
- shellfish
- fish
Steamed white asparagus, vin jaune sabayon, a rasp of cured yolk.
- egg
- dairy
- alcohol
- sulphites
Hokkaido langoustine warmed in brown butter, green almond, a thread of yuzu.
- shellfish
- dairy
- nuts
Clear twice clarified broth of charred leek and kombu, poured at the table.
Les poissons
From the cold northern water, cooked on the bone whenever the fish allows.
Line caught turbot rested over its roasting juices, a sauce of vin jaune.
- fish
- dairy
- alcohol
- sulphites
Dover sole in nut brown butter, lifted with the cool green pepper of sansho.
- fish
- dairy
Hokkaido scallop barely seared, smooth cauliflower, a spoon of oscietra.
- shellfish
- dairy
- fish
Roasted monkfish on the bone, a light mussel and saffron broth, samphire.
- fish
- shellfish
- sulphites
Les viandes
Cooked over the same low coals that run the length of every service.
Aged pigeon over embers, beetroot pressed in its juices, blackcurrant leaf.
Aged duck breast over coals, glazed turnip, a sharp verjus jus.
- sulphites
Sweetbread roasted golden, spring morels, a cream of vin jaune.
- dairy
- alcohol
- sulphites
Milk fed lamb over coals, braised artichoke, a sharp anchovy and caper jus.
- fish
- sulphites
Fromages et sucre
Cheese from the cool trolley, then a short list of restrained sweets.
Comte held twenty four months, toasted walnut, a thin honey crisp.
- dairy
- nuts
- gluten
Three cheeses chosen at the table, with quince, pepper, and dark bread.
- dairy
- gluten
Cold yuzu cream under a thin sable, the last note left almost plain.
- gluten
- dairy
- egg
Toasted buckwheat, brown butter ice, a spoon of bitter honey.
- gluten
- dairy
- egg
La Cave
Grower Champagne and cool, low intervention wine sit beside polished rice sake and a quiet list of teas. Pour by the glass, the bottle, or a flight read course by course alongside the menu.
Champagne, wine, sake, and tea, By the glass, the bottle, or a flight
Champagne
Grower bottles only, chalk driven and dry, poured to open the table.
All Chardonnay from a single chalk slope, citrus and crushed shell, bone dry.
- sulphites
- alcohol
Pinot driven and broad, red apple and toast, made by one family in the Vallee.
- sulphites
- alcohol
No added sugar, taut and saline, a Champagne for the colder plates.
- sulphites
- alcohol
A still pale rose Champagne of real depth, red fruit and chalk.
- sulphites
- alcohol
Les vins blancs
Cool whites with no new oak, chosen for cut rather than weight.
Cool Chardonnay, oyster shell and green apple, no oak at all.
- sulphites
- alcohol
Steel dry Riesling, lime and wet stone, grown on a granite slope.
- sulphites
- alcohol
Loire Chenin of quiet power, quince and chamomile, long and saline.
- sulphites
- alcohol
White Burgundy of restraint, hazelnut and white flowers, gently held.
- sulphites
- alcohol
Les vins rouges
Reds of lift and clarity, served just below cellar, never warm.
Pinot Noir of restraint, red fruit and forest floor, cool and clear.
- sulphites
- alcohol
Bright granite Gamay from a single hill, crunchy and pale, chilled lightly.
- sulphites
- alcohol
Cool climate Syrah, white pepper and violet, a wine for the pigeon.
- sulphites
- alcohol
Perfumed red Burgundy of real finesse, rose and red cherry.
- sulphites
- alcohol
Sake et sans alcool
Polished rice sake and considered non alcoholic pours for the whole table.
Polished rice sake, pear and cold stone, served just under cellar.
- alcohol
A dry fermented green tea, lightly sparkling, made to stand in for Champagne.
Green grape verjus lengthened with cold herb cordial, sharp and clean.
- sulphites
Shaded green tea drawn cold overnight, deep and faintly sweet.
Les accords
Flights read alongside Le Menu Degustation, chosen by the sommelier.
Six glasses walking beside the menu, Champagne, white and red both.
- sulphites
- alcohol
Six rarer glasses drawn from the older shelves of the cellar.
- sulphites
- alcohol
Six non alcoholic pours of fermented tea, verjus, and cold infusion.
- sulphites
Tell us once, and we cook around it.
Each dish carries the allergens it contains. Because the menu follows the morning market, we can reshape almost any movement with a little notice.
- Gluten
- Dairy
- Egg
- Soy
- Fish
- Shellfish
- Tree nuts
- Sulphites
- Alcohol