Tomato from the Seine gardens
Course IJoel's ripest fruit, barely warmed, dressed in its own pressed juice and a thread of cold green oil.
The table
The menu is the morning market, read out loud.
What the growers and fishers send decides the order of the day. The sequence shifts with the season, the tide and the weather they had.
The table of the day
One sequence, built each morning from the market and the growers who feed us. Served to the whole table at 165 euros a guest.
Oyster from the Cotentin beds
Course IIOpened to order, left in its own cold brine, lifted only by a turn of black pepper and verjus.
Langoustine from the Guilvinec boats
Course IIILanded that morning, warmed for seconds over embers, brushed with the butter churned at Saint Malo.
Wild herbs from the Ile de France hedgerows
Course IVGathered before the heat of the day, served raw and cold with a broth drawn from their own stems.
Turbot from the line fishers of Brittany
Course VA single thick cut on the bone, cooked slow beside the fire, finished with its own roasting juices.
Lamb from the Quercy uplands
Course VIRaised on mountain grass and mother's milk, brought whole to the hearth and rested long.
Pear from the old Anjou orchard
Course VIILeft on the branch until the last morning, poached gently in its own perfume and cellar honey.
Butter and salt from the Brittany churn
Course VIIIBordier's hand worked butter, cultured cream and a few crystals of grey sea salt, served simply with warm bread.
From the market, by the plate
A shorter way through the same growers, chosen course by course.
Carrot from the Bertin garden
28Pulled at dawn in Brittany, roasted in its own skin, glazed with a reduction of its tops.
Scallop from the Erquy bay
36Hand dived and shucked at the pass, sliced cold, seasoned with seaweed salt and lemon thyme.
Asparagus from the Landes sands
32Cut white and heavy that week, steamed over its own water, anchored by a spoon of cultured cream.
Pigeon from the Racan farms
44Grain fed and gently aged, roasted on the crown over embers, served pink with its own dark jus.
Cheese from the Antony cellars
26A short board affined in Alsace, brought to the table at the moment each round is ready.
Strawberry from the Gariguette rows
22The first sweet pick of the season, left whole, with a cream barely sweetened and wild mint.
Beef from the Bazas herd
48Grass raised in the southwest and long aged, grilled over the hearth, carved at the table.
Apricot from the Roussillon slopes
22Tree ripened in the heat, warmed in a little of its own juice, finished with toasted almond.
The cellar, by the glass
Growers of another kind, poured to follow the day.
Chenin from the Loire chalk
16Dry and saline from a single family parcel, kept on its lees through a long cold winter.
Gamay from the granite hills
15Whole bunch and barely worked, light and cold, from a grower who farms by hand.
Champagne from a single village
24A grower's cuvee built on old vines, low in dosage, with the chalk left plainly in the glass.
Cider from the Cotentin orchards
12Wild apples pressed and left to settle, dry and bright, poured to open the meal.
Verjus from the green harvest
9Pressed from unripe grapes, sharp and clean, the house pour for those who set wine aside.
Herb infusion from the morning gather
8Steeped from the same wild leaves the kitchen cooks with, served hot to close the table.
The growers decide the day. Let us cook what they brought, for you.