Written each morning, after the market.
Prices in euro. The plates change with the day and the season, so what you read here is a recent shape of things rather than a fixed card.
The set lunch
Four plates that follow the market. Written each morning, served to the whole table.
Charred leeks, hazelnut, aged ewe
EUR26Spring leeks held over embers until sweet, finished with toasted hazelnut and a shaving of hard ewe cheese.
Pork from the Bigorre, turnip, mustard leaf
EUR34Slow farmed pork rested over the fire, plated with young turnip and a bite of peppery mustard leaf.
Sheep yoghurt, honey, buckwheat
EUR14Loose sheep yoghurt, a spoon of chestnut honey, and buckwheat toasted dark for the snap.
The evening table
A longer run of small plates that lengthens with the season. Best taken together and shared.
Oysters, fermented gooseberry
EUR19Cold oysters with a sharp splash of last summer's gooseberries, kept in brine since July.
Beetroot cooked in clay, smoked cream
EUR22Beetroot baked slowly in a salt and clay crust, opened at the pass over lightly smoked cream.
Cuttlefish, white beans, wild garlic
EUR26Cuttlefish cut fine and warmed through, with soft white beans and the first of the wild garlic.
Aged duck, burnt onion, walnut
EUR38Duck hung four weeks, grilled rare over vine cuttings, with burnt onion and pickled walnut.
Salt cod, potato, bay
EUR30House cured cod folded through crushed potato, finished with brown butter and fresh bay.
Tarte of late apples, raw cream
EUR13Thin tarte of orchard apples baked until the edges catch, served warm with unwhipped raw cream.
From the cellar
Living wines from small growers, poured by the glass so the table can keep moving.
Loire chenin, skin contact
Dry and faintly tannic, left on the skins a fortnight. Quince, beeswax and a saline finish.
EUR11Jura savagnin, under flor
Aged without topping up the barrel. Walnut, green apple and a long nutty pull on the close.
EUR13Beaujolais gamay, whole bunch
Light, cold and bright. Crushed cherry and pepper, with almost nothing added in the cellar.
EUR10Auvergne pet nat, pink
Bottled before the ferment finished, so it keeps a soft fizz. Wild strawberry and a dry edge.
EUR12Roussillon grenache, old vines
Warm and unforced, from vines older than the grower. Dried fig, garrigue and warm stone.
EUR14Alsace pinot gris, no sulphur
Nothing added at bottling. Pear, smoke and a wild streak that settles after a few minutes open.
EUR12Tell us nothing and we will cook the day for you. Tell us everything and we will work around it.