The order shifts with the stone, fish and root we see in the morning. What follows is a guide, not a fixed card. It is read aloud at the counter and served to the whole room.
The set path through the day. Read at the counter, served to the whole room.
Hand-dived oyster, barely cooled. A thin sheet of green apple. Dashi poured at the seat.
Akashi sea bream cured in stone salt. Sudachi, a line of green oil, nothing else.
Winter turnip cooked in its own water, brushed with smoked butter, dusted with leek ash.
Langoustine seared on coals for one breath. Koji butter, a single drop of vinegar.
Aged duck over fire, sliced thick. Blood sauce cut with black plum. Bitter leaf to the side.
Donabe rice with the day's trimmings. Served once, scraped from the stone pot.
Whatever stone fruit is ready, raw and cold. Verjus, thick cream, a crack of salt.
A shorter line at noon. Four moves, finished by half past one.
Hand-dived clam, warm leek, a green oil pressed the same week.
Mackerel scorched skin-side, raw under. Stone-ground mustard, pickled stem.
A short cut of aged beef on coals. Watercress, bone juice, salt at the edge.
Buckwheat folded with brown butter. Cold pear, a line of dark honey.
Counter pours. Low-intervention, mostly Japanese and French, listed by weight.
Dry sake from a small Nara house. Stone-cold, poured into grey cups.
A lean village Chablis. Cut, salt, almost no fruit.
Wild-fermented apple cider from the north. Sharp and clean.
Roasted tea, brewed long, for the end of the line.
The line is decided each day. Sit, and let us read it to you.